After several weeks of beautiful calm weather and flat seas, some swell finally rolled in. I woke up this morning to see some pretty big sets arriving at Freshwater Beach. Two crazy surf-skiers were out there enjoying the wild ride.
It’s spring and time to play! This will be the summer that I’m going to learn to surf — properly. I had lessons last summer, so I’ve got the basics and I can get to my feet. I just need practice and lots of it! My aspirations are modest: I’d like to be able to surf a gentle unbroken wave on a long-board with a fraction of an ounce of style. That’s all I ask of myself! I don’t think I’ll be sharing a wave with this lot just yet. But I love how everyone — surfers, surf-skiers, body-surfers — all share the waves….